One Week in Kaza: My Life in the Heart of Spiti Valley

The bus journey from Reckong Peo to Kaza proved to be quite challenging for me, especially considering my height of 6 feet. As someone who requires generous legroom to prevent my knees from protesting, the cramped conditions left me feeling increasingly uncomfortable. Despite my overwhelming excitement for the upcoming one week in Kaza, the discomfort in my legs made it difficult to fully immerse myself in anticipation. Throughout the journey, I found myself shifting uncomfortably in my seat, trying in vain to find a position that offered some relief. Each passing hour seemed to amplify the ache in my legs, leaving me feeling restless and eager for the journey to end. Nevertheless, I remained determined to make the most of my time in Kaza, hoping that the discomfort of the journey would soon be overshadowed by the adventures awaiting me in this beautiful valley.

I had a similar experience traveling in local buses in Kathmandu. I found that being tall wasn’t always advantageous; it often led to discomfort and pain. The journey from Sangla that commenced early in the morning concluded at the Kaza bus stand late in the evening, or perhaps even early at nightfall. Upon arrival in town, my first priority was to secure accommodation, specifically, affordable homestay in Kaza.

Navigating the bustling streets of Kaza, I was keenly aware of the fatigue settling into my limbs after the arduous journey. As I searched for budget-friendly accommodations in Spiti Valley, I couldn’t shake off the weariness that had accumulated throughout the day. Despite the exhaustion, the prospect of exploring Kaza invigorated me, fuelling my determination to find a suitable place to rest for the night. Considering that I had to spend one week in Kaza, finding a cheaper place was the only option left. 

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With each step, the vibrant energy of the town enveloped me, offering glimpses of its rich culture and charm. Despite the challenges posed by my height during travel, I found solace in the promise of new experiences awaiting me in Kaza. And so, armed with resilience and an adventurous spirit, I embarked on the quest for a humble yet welcoming abode amidst the enchanting backdrop of this Himalayan gem.

Upon arrival at the bus stand, I eagerly embarked on the quest for budget-friendly accommodations in Kaza, venturing into the vibrant maze of the main settlement. Aware of the importance of securing lodging swiftly, I approached several locals, seeking recommendations for budget-friendly homestays. To my delight, the very first suggestion proved to be a perfect fit. Shamabal Home Stay beckoned, promising respite after a long day of travel.

Stepping into Shamabal Home Stay, I was greeted by the warm hospitality of the host, who graciously offered me a room for the incredibly reasonable rate of 500 INR per night. The shared washroom arrangement was a small compromise in exchange for such affordability, especially considering the prime location within the bustling main market area.

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As I settled into my modest yet comfortable abode, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of relief wash over me. The weight of uncertainty lifted from my shoulders, replaced by the reassuring certainty of a roof over my head for the week ahead. Despite the simplicity of the accommodations, the cozy ambiance and welcoming atmosphere of Shamabal Home Stay instantly made it feel like home. Moreover, the strategic location proved to be an added boon, offering unparalleled access to the pulse of Kaza’s bustling marketplace. With shops, eateries, and cultural attractions mere steps away, I knew that I wouldn’t have to venture far to immerse myself in the vibrant culture of local life.

During the off-peak season, the options for accommodation in Kaza were limited, with many properties shuttered. However, this scarcity worked in favor of my preference for authentic, local experiences over lavish, high-end hotels. I’ve always been drawn to the charm of staying in a homestay, immersing myself in the daily rhythms of the community rather than isolating myself in a tourist bubble. Shamabal Home Stay epitomized everything I sought in my travels, a genuine connection with the local culture and people. From the moment I stepped through its doors, I was enveloped in the warmth of the owner’s hospitality and the genuine smiles of his children.

Staying at Shamabal offered me more than just a place to rest my head; it provided an intimate glimpse into the fabric of life in Kaza. Conversations with the owner revealed insights into local customs, traditions, and even hidden gems to explore in the surrounding area. The personal touch extended beyond mere hospitality; it was woven into every aspect of my stay. Whether it was sharing meals with the family, learning about their daily routines, or simply exchanging stories late into the night, each moment felt like a cherished memory in the making.  As I reflect on my time at Shamabal Home Stay, I am filled with gratitude for the genuine connections forged and the enriching experiences shared. It’s moments like these where the heart of a place is revealed through its people that truly define the essence of travel for me.

Exploring the culinary scene in a new destination can indeed be a challenge, and my arrival in Kaza was no exception. After settling into my homestay under the cloak of night, I ventured out into the dimly lit streets, greeted by the quietude of a town winding down for the evening. With most establishments shuttered, finding sustenance seemed like a daunting task.

However, fate led me to a local eatery where the tantalizing aroma of spices beckoned me inside. With limited options available, I opted for a humble yet comforting meal of noodles and momo. As I sat there, savoring the flavors of my impromptu dinner, a sense of curiosity stirred within me. A Haryanvi guy indulging in momo and noodles, an unexpected fusion of cultures on my plate.

Yet, beneath the surface of this culinary encounter lay a question that lingered in my mind: Will I have to eat like this for one week in Kaza? As I pondered this thought, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of uncertainty mingled with anticipation. Little did I know that this humble beginning would pave the way for a week filled with unexpected culinary delights and unforgettable flavors.

As a proud North Indian, specifically a Haryanvi, my palate has been shaped by the hearty flavors of my homeland. Thus, upon arriving in Kaza, I found myself facing the challenge of reconciling my culinary preferences with the local fare. While I hold immense respect for all cuisines, my personal inclination gravitates towards the comfort of familiar tastes.

The following morning, determined to start my day on a satisfying note, I ventured out in search of a breakfast that resonated with my palate. Serendipity led me to a local café, where the aroma of freshly cooked aloo paratha beckoned me inside. Pairing it with a steaming cup of coffee, I savored the familiar flavors that reminded me of home. However, as the day progressed, I found myself once again confronted with the culinary offerings of Kaza. Dinner brought another round of thukpa and noodles, delicious in their own right but a departure from my customary fare.

Reflecting on my dining experiences thus far, I realized the need for a more strategic approach to meal planning during my stay in Kaza. With this in mind, I resolved to devise a plan to ensure that my future meals aligned more closely with my personal tastes. After all, while exploring new cuisines is an integral part of travel, finding comfort in familiar flavors can be equally important for a fulfilling journey.

Feeling determined to satisfy my cravings for familiar flavors during my stay in Kaza, I sought a solution to my culinary conundrum. That very night, I approached the owner of the homestay with a proposition.

“Can you let me use your kitchen? I’m willing to compensate you for the privilege,” I asked tentatively.

To my relief, the owner agreed, offering me access to the kitchen to prepare my own meals. “Okay, you can use the kitchen and cook your meal,” he replied graciously.

With a sense of gratitude, I expressed my thanks. “Thanks. I will bring my own groceries from the market and cook here,” I assured him.

And so, with the owner’s permission secured, I devised a plan to take charge of my dining experience in Kaza. Armed with a list of essential ingredients, I set out to procure groceries from the local market, eager to transform the homestay kitchen into my own culinary haven. This newfound freedom not only provided me with the opportunity to enjoy the comforts of home-cooked meals but also empowered me to infuse my dishes with the flavors and traditions that resonated most deeply with me.

In the daytime, Kaza basked in the gentle warmth of the sun, offering a deceptive sense of comfort. While I comfortably roamed the streets in just a single t-shirt, the locals couldn’t help but express their surprise. They, on the other hand, were bundled up in thick woolen sweaters and layers of clothing, seemingly impervious to the chill that lingered in the air.

As evening descended, a stark transformation swept over the landscape. The temperature plummeted rapidly, plunging the town into a bone-chilling cold. It was a sharp contrast to the mildness of the daytime, catching many unsuspecting travelers off guard. The locals, however, seemed unfazed, accustomed to the dramatic fluctuations in temperature that characterized life in the high-altitude desert. One particular quirk of the frigid nights in Kaza was the freezing of water pipes. As the mercury dropped to sub-zero temperatures, even the slightest trace of moisture succumbed to the icy grip of winter. It was a phenomenon that often took visitors by surprise, highlighting the harsh realities of living in such an extreme environment.

Spiti Valley, with its breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage, beckons travelers from far and wide. Yet, amidst the allure of its myriad attractions, I found myself drawn to a different rhythm of exploration, a pace characterized by leisure and spontaneity.

Eschewing the notion of a tightly packed itinerary, I embraced the philosophy of slow travel. Rather than rushing from one destination to the next, I allowed myself the luxury of lingering, immersing myself fully in the present moment. For me, the essence of travel lay not in checking off a list of must-see sights but in savoring the nuances of each experience. With this mindset, I approached my time in Spiti Valley with a sense of tranquility, unburdened by the pressure to cram everything into a single visit. Instead, I savored the simple joys of wandering aimlessly through quaint villages, engaging in leisurely conversations with locals, and basking in the serenity of the natural surroundings.

In embracing the idea of leaving something for the next time, I discovered a profound sense of freedom. While it’s true that the future is never guaranteed, this mindset imbued each moment with a sense of possibility, a belief that there would always be another opportunity to return and explore further. As I meandered along the winding roads of Spiti Valley, I found solace in the knowledge that true discovery lies not in the breadth of one’s travels but in the depth of one’s experiences. And so, with each passing day, I reveled in the beauty of slow travel, allowing myself to be swept away by the ebb and flow of life in this captivating corner of the world.

Perched majestically atop a rugged hill overlooking the quaint town of Kaza, Kaza Monastery stands as a beacon of spiritual serenity in the heart of Spiti Valley. Dating back centuries, this ancient Buddhist monastery exudes an aura of tranquility and reverence. Its whitewashed walls and vibrant prayer flags fluttering in the wind create a striking contrast against the stark mountain backdrop. Inside, the monastery’s halls echo with the soft murmur of monks chanting prayers, offering visitors a glimpse into a world steeped in tradition and devotion. Kaza Monastery serves not only as a religious sanctuary but also as a symbol of cultural heritage and spiritual enlightenment.

Embarking on a journey of discovery beyond the confines of Kaza, I secured the services of a friendly cab driver to navigate the rugged terrain of Spiti Valley. Our itinerary for the day was ambitious yet promising, encompassing three iconic destinations: Key Monastery, Kibber Village, and Chicham Village. As the clock struck 9 AM, we set forth, leaving behind the tranquil streets of Kaza to venture into the untamed wilderness that lay beyond. With each passing mile, anticipation mingled with awe as we embarked on a quest to unravel the mysteries of Spiti’s ancient landscapes and vibrant communities.

Arriving at Key Monastery, a bastion of spirituality perched atop a craggy hill, I was warmly welcomed by a gracious monk. Inviting me into the serene confines of the monastery, he extended traditional gestures of hospitality, offering butter tea and local herbal brews. Engaging in heartfelt conversation, we delved into the monastery’s rich history and spiritual significance. The monk generously guided me through meditation chambers, where I immersed myself in moments of profound tranquility and introspection. Time seemed to stand still as I embraced the solitude, enveloped by the sanctity of Key Monastery’s hallowed halls.

Nestled amidst the rugged beauty of Spiti Valley, Kibber Village beckons with its rustic charm and timeless allure. Venturing into this remote Himalayan hamlet, I was captivated by its quaint stone houses and labyrinthine lanes. Wandering through the village, I encountered warm smiles and friendly greetings from the locals, who welcomed me into their tight-knit community with open arms. Amidst the backdrop of snow-capped peaks and rolling meadows, Kibber exuded an air of serenity and simplicity that felt like a balm for the soul. With each step, I felt a deeper connection to the land and its resilient inhabitants, leaving an indelible imprint on my heart. Exchanging laughter with local kids in Kibber Village filled the air with joy. Amidst the Himalayan backdrop, their infectious smiles created a universal bond transcending language and culture. In those moments, the beauty of shared laughter echoed through the mountains, leaving a lasting impression of human connection.

Perched precariously over a dizzying gorge in the rugged terrain of Spiti Valley, Chicham Bridge stands as a marvel of engineering and a testament to human ingenuity. Stretching across the gaping chasm with breathtaking grandeur, this suspension bridge connects the remote villages of Chicham and Kibber, serving as a lifeline for the local community. As I stood upon its swaying expanse, the sheer magnitude of the gorge below took my breath away, while the wind whispered tales of resilience and perseverance. Chicham Bridge epitomizes the indomitable spirit of the Himalayas, beckoning travelers to tread lightly upon its ancient pathways and embrace the awe-inspiring beauty of nature.

As our driver recounted the story of Chicham Village, his words echoed with a deep sense of emotion, revealing the profound impact of the bridge on the local community. He shared how the villagers had celebrated with unbridled joy when the bridge was finally completed. Their faces lit up with happiness, their voices resonating with heartfelt gratitude as they embraced the newfound connection it provided. In their smiles and laughter, I glimpsed the resilience and spirit of unity that defined the people of Chicham. It was a testament to the transformative power of infrastructure in shaping lives and fostering hope in even the most remote corners of the world.

Dancing amidst the pristine snow, I felt a surge of exhilaration coursing through my veins. With each joyful step, I embraced the pure, untouched beauty of the landscape surrounding me. The crisp mountain air filled my lungs, invigorating me with a sense of freedom and abandon. In that fleeting moment, as I twirled and leaped with abandon, I became one with the wintry world around me. The snowflakes seemed to dance in harmony with my movements, creating a symphony of serenity and joy. It was a magical interlude, a celebration of life’s simple pleasures amidst the majestic splendor of nature.

After two days of exploration, an unexpected urge struck me: a longing for a haircut and beard trim. Despite it being a Sunday, I set out in search of a salon, only to find most shuttered for the day. Determined, I stumbled upon a small shop, where the owner graciously opened up just for me. His joy at having a customer from Delhi was palpable, and as he skillfully wielded his scissors, we whiled away an hour in animated conversation. The retro Bollywood tunes playing in the background added to the charm of the experience, turning a simple haircut into a memorable encounter with local hospitality.

On the final day of my Kaza adventure, I embarked on a mission to capture the essence of Spiti Valley in the form of souvenirs to take back to Delhi. Wandering through the bustling local markets and quaint shops, I sought treasures that would encapsulate the spirit of my unforgettable journey. From soft woolen shawls to cozy socks for my mom, each purchase was imbued with memories of the sights, sounds, and experiences that had touched my soul during my time in this enchanting land. As I packed away my finds, I knew these mementos would serve as cherished reminders of my Spiti sojourn for years to come.

During my bus journey to Kaza, the conductor imparted a crucial piece of advice: to secure my return ticket a day in advance. He emphasized the necessity of this precaution to avoid the risk of facing a packed bus on departure day. This insightful tip underscored the importance of planning ahead, ensuring a smooth and hassle-free journey back from the captivating landscapes of Kaza.

My one week in Kaza unfolded like a rainbow woven with surprises, mysticism, and cultural immersion. Each day brought forth new wonders, revealing the rich tradition of Spiti Valley’s heritage and natural beauty. From the moment I arrived, I was swept away by the allure of this remote Himalayan town. As I explored its labyrinthine streets and ancient monasteries, I found myself immersed in a world steeped in mysticism and tradition. The echoing chants of monks reverberated through the halls of Key Monastery, while the towering peaks of the surrounding mountains whispered tales of ancient wisdom.

Yet, amidst the serenity of the landscape, I encountered unexpected moments of cultural exchange. Whether it was sharing laughter with local children in Kibber Village or indulging in heartfelt conversations over butter tea with monks, each interaction left an indelible mark on my soul. As the days passed, I found myself enchanted by the rhythm of life in Kaza. Its bustling markets, tranquil monasteries, and warm-hearted inhabitants. And as I bid farewell to this enchanting corner of the world, I carried with me not only memories of its awe-inspiring beauty but also a profound appreciation for the richness of experiences that had unfolded during my time there.