Shangarh is an enchanting haven on Earth, a sanctuary of peace and tranquility that beckons me back time and again. Nestled in nature’s embrace, this idyllic retreat captivates with its serene landscapes and soothing ambiance. Each visit to Shangarh feels like a journey to a piece of heaven, where the symphony of nature harmonizes with the soul, offering a respite from the chaos of the world. It’s a place where the heart finds solace, and the spirit rejuvenates amidst the untouched beauty of this hidden gem. Shangarh is not just a destination; it’s a timeless escape, a haven of serenity that etches its essence into every traveler’s heart, creating an irresistible allure to return again and again. As I traverse the mesmerizing landscapes on my trek to Lapah from Shangarh, the pristine beauty of this hidden gem becomes an integral part of my soul, weaving an unforgettable beauty of nature’s wonders and blissful serenity.
Ever since my first visit to Shangarh in October 2019, I sensed an irresistible pull that assured me I would return to this village again and again. Shangarh, nestled in the pristine embrace of nature, exudes elegance, pureness, and unmatched serenity. This small, isolated village possesses everything one could desire – a timeless beauty that transcends the ordinary, inviting me to immerse myself in its enchanting allure repeatedly.



For fellow trekking enthusiasts, Shangarh unfolds a realm of scenic and beautiful trails. During my visit in September 2023, the idea of trekking to Lapah from Shangarh seized my adventurous spirit. Renowned among the trekking routes in Shangarh, the Shangarh to Lapah trek is a day-long expedition that immerses you in the breathtaking landscapes. Although the trek demands a day’s commitment, the charm of Lapah village invites an overnight stay, creating an immersive experience that extends into the next day. Despite my multiple visits to Shangarh, the trek to Lapah was a novel adventure, revealing a facet of this picturesque destination that had remained undiscovered in my previous explorations.





Nestled in the warm hospitality of Jeevan Negi’s homestay, I found myself relishing the familiarity of the surroundings, having stayed at Jeevan’s home during my visit in August. Jeevan, a gracious host, has now expanded his offerings to include a charming homestay, adding another layer of comfort to my stay. The evening took a fascinating turn as I joined Vedram Negi, the affable owner of Mountain View Cafe, for a night of camaraderie. We gathered in the cozy ambiance of Jeevan’s homestay, discussing our shared passion for trekking. Amidst laughter and shared stories, we decided to embark on the Shangarh to Lapah trek the next day, fueled by the shared enthusiasm for adventure. The night became a canvas for planning our trek, with maps spread out and ideas exchanged. Vedram’s insights into the terrain created a comprehensive plan that promised not just a physical journey but a cultural and scenic immersion into the landscapes. As dawn broke, our excitement peaked. After a wholesome breakfast, fueled by anticipation, we eagerly set out on our trekking to Lapah from Shangarh adventure. Ready to explore the beauty that awaited us along the winding trails and pristine landscapes of this enchanting region, each step resonated with the promise of discovery and the allure of the unexplored.



Passing through the sacred Devta Ground, where nature’s beauty intertwined with spiritual tranquility, I found myself mesmerized by the pristine allure of this breathtaking landscape. Undeterred, I continued my trek to Lapah, a small village nestled roughly 13-15 km away from Shangarh. Much like Shangarh, Lapah unfolded before me in all its isolated beauty, a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. Trekking to Lapah from Shangarh had been a long-awaited adventure, and this was my inaugural journey into its enchanting realms. Filled with a palpable mix of excitement and energy, every step carried the weight of anticipation, promising a unique experience in the heart of nature’s splendor.
In the company of Jeevan Ram and Vedram, our trio ventured forth, and before long, the thunderous roar of Barshangarh Waterfall signaled the commencement of our true trekking odyssey. As we pressed forward, the trail led us to a pivotal juncture where the road diverged into two distinct paths. Our group decisively chose the route leading to our trek destination, while Jeevan Ram opted for the alternate path. The terrain transformed into a steep ascent, rigorously testing my endurance. Recognizing the need for a breather, I made the choice to pause and rejuvenate. Finding respite beneath the expansive shade of a giant tree, I took a moment to gather my thoughts and energies. The tranquil surroundings provided the perfect backdrop for reflection, a serene interlude before we resumed our trek to Lapah, renewed and ready for the challenges ahead.



Continuing our trek to Lapah from Shangarh without a pause for the next hour, we reached a pivotal moment – our true pitstop. Perched atop a hill, the elevation afforded us a breathtaking panorama, offering glimpses of Shangarh and its majestic peaks in the distance. Enveloped by the serenity of the elevated vantage point, I decided to savor the moment. With the backdrop of melodious tunes playing on the Bluetooth speaker, the landscape unfolded around me as I resumed my march forward. Each step propelled me farther, and as Negi’s silhouette slowly faded behind, I felt a profound connection with the raw beauty of the mountainscape.
As the day reached its peak, the treacherous uphill trek to Lapah began to transition into a smoother surface, albeit still challenging my endurance. Pressing on for another hour, a welcomed sight appeared – a cascading water source. Recognizing the vital importance of hydration, I seized the opportunity to fill my water bottle. In the midst of a trek like this, where the demands on the body are significant, access to replenishing water sources becomes crucial. With my bottle refilled, I forged ahead, invigorated and ready to face the continuing journey to Lapah from Shangarh.
As we continued our trek to Lapah, a serendipitous encounter awaited us – Jeevan Ram reappeared, accompanied by another companion. The skies darkened, and soon, what began as a drizzle transformed into a formidable thunderstorm accompanied by heavy rainfall. Hastily seeking refuge, we found shelter in the only home atop that hill. Witnessing the conditions in which people lived, so isolated and remote, left me contemplative. The dwelling we sought refuge in stood as the solitary beacon in the vast landscape, making me marvel at the resilience of those who call such places home. The rainfall intensified, almost erasing the visibility beyond the immediate surroundings. Seated in the shelter, I gazed outside, patiently awaiting a break in the weather to resume my trek to Lapah from Shangarh. Despite the kind offer of tea, my preference led me to decline, and in that quaint shelter, I found myself immersed in the symphony of raindrops, patiently awaiting the moment to continue my journey.




During our sheltered pause from the rain, a kind gesture unfolded as freshly plucked corn was offered and skillfully roasted. The delightful aroma of the corn took on an extra layer of richness, heightened by the ambiance of the rainfall. Each bite became a culinary delight, a moment of indulgence in the midst of nature’s performance. When the rain finally ceased, we set our sights on Negi’s medicinal farms. Spending half an hour amidst the lush greenery, Negi shared insights into his land, passionately detailing the various medicinal plants he had cultivated. The visit became a fascinating journey into the world of herbal remedies and sustainable farming practices. Returning to the same home, we resumed our trek to Lapah from Shangarh. This brief detour had added a unique dimension to our adventure, weaving together the threads of nature, hospitality, and the cultural richness of the region.
While we continued trekking to Lapah for the next couple of hours, the day gradually relinquished its hold to the encroaching night. As we neared the village, a well-deserved break awaited us. Settling down in a serene spot, I noticed a hand pump nearby. Eager to refresh myself, I pumped some water and cleansed my face, shedding the accumulated layers of dust and sweat. This marked the beginning of Lapah village. A quaint settlement unfolded before us, adorned with a temple and a scattering of homes. From this point, our path led us to a descent, beckoning us into the heart of Lapah’s charm.



As we approached a human settlement with a few quaint houses, I had the delightful encounter of meeting some adorable kids. Pulling a couple of candies from my bag, I offered them to the children, their eyes lighting up with joy. It was a heartwarming moment, a small exchange of smiles in the midst of our trek to Lapah. While our journey was nearing its end, there was still a trail left to navigate before reaching the first guest house in Lapah. The once-muted gray sky intensified, casting a darker hue over the landscape. This particular trail, winding through dense bushes, proved to be slippery terrain. Despite my best efforts, I tripped a couple of times. The final stumble, more serious than the rest, tested my reflexes. Fortunately, swift reactions spared me from any significant harm, allowing me to safely conclude the adventurous trek to Lapah.
Navigating the narrow trail, devoid of any specific path and densely enveloped by bushes on either side, I felt transported into the heart of the Amazon forests. The sheer wilderness and the untamed beauty of the surroundings created an atmosphere of genuine adventure. In that moment, I couldn’t help but imagine myself as an intrepid explorer, akin to Indiana Jones, forging ahead through the thick foliage and grass, embracing the thrill of the unknown. It was a real-life adventure, a journey into the uncharted, and each step resonated with the spirit of exploration.



Wilderness Escapade: A Night at Lapah’s Forest Guest House – My Man vs. Wild Adventure
Nestled amidst the lush embrace of thick bushes, Lapah’s forest guest house stood in solitude, untouched by human presence. Upon our arrival, we found it securely locked, prompting Negi to diligently procure the key. As the door creaked open, it revealed a space seemingly untouched for quite some time. The guest house, surrounded by verdant foliage, boasted two adjoining rooms. A small porch adorned the entrance, while an attached washroom complemented the simplicity of the bedrooms. Inside, a spacious ambiance unfolded, featuring a double-sized bed, a neatly arranged cupboard, and the comforting presence of a fireplace. The atmosphere exuded a sense of quietude, offering a serene haven amidst the untouched wilderness of Lapah.
With a sigh of relief, I swiftly kicked off my hiking boots and collapsed onto the bed. My back, weary from the long trek to Lapah, expressed its gratitude for the well-deserved rest. Finally, the arduous journey had reached its conclusion. Negi, ever the gracious host, took charge of arranging dinner. The additional local companion from Lapah ventured into the village to procure our meal. Soon enough, a delicious spread was presented before us. Dinner consisted of kacchi kadhi, matar ki sabji, and chapati, each bite a flavorful culmination of our trekking adventure, served with a generous side of satisfaction.



Wild Dreams and Starlit Serenity: A Solo Slumber in the Wilderness at the Forest Guest House
After finishing dinner and engaging in light-hearted conversation, the trio departed for the village. Left all alone in the Forest Guest House, I prepared for a night of solitude. The door posed a challenge, resistant to easy manipulation and emitting a pronounced creaking noise upon opening. Meanwhile, the crickets outside seemed to be hosting their annual carnival, their rhythmic sounds intruding upon the stillness of the night. Amidst the wilderness, post-monsoon and rain-soaked, a sense of restlessness crept in. The imagination played its tricks as thoughts of nocturnal creatures, from snakes to scorpions and centipedes, stirred a slight unease. The symphony of nature and the vulnerability of the moment made for an intriguing, albeit slightly apprehensive, solo night in the midst of the untamed wilderness.
As I lay there, a couple of daring crickets managed to crawl inside through the gap under the door. At that moment, scenes from all the horror movies I had ever watched began to flash before my eyes. The atmosphere was eerily silent, with only the occasional sounds of insects and mysterious rustlings from outside, as though someone was stealthily navigating through the surrounding bushes. Each of these sounds sent a subtle chill down my spine, enough to set the stage for a dramatic scene. Yet, contrary to the suspenseful ambiance, I surprisingly found myself drifting into a restful sleep. Perhaps the exhaustion from the challenging trek to reach this remote place had overtaken any lingering apprehensions, allowing me to find solace in the embrace of a deep and undisturbed slumber.




In the midst of the night, fueled by a surge of courage, I decided to steal a glance outside. The sky was a breathtaking canvas, adorned with clear constellations twinkling above. The surroundings were cloaked in darkness, with just a solitary light in the far-off distance, casting a gentle glow. After this brief interlude, I retreated back inside, utilizing the guest house’s washroom facilities before settling back into the cocoon of sleep. The serene beauty of the starlit night, coupled with the distant glow, added a touch of tranquility to the adventurous night spent alone in the wilderness.
The next morning, I found myself awakening even before the intrusive alarm could disrupt my slumber. A call from Vedram Negi pierced the quietude, urging me to retrace my steps back to Shangarh due to an unforeseen emergency on his end. Although I initially harbored plans to descend to the village, explore its charm, relish locally-made breakfast, and soak in the local ambiance, fate had different plans for that day, and my intended village escapade remained a missed opportunity.
This time, my journey back was accompanied by a few additional companions who joined along the way. Fueled by a renewed surge of energy, I took the lead, marching ahead with a determined pace. Those around me admired the stamina and speed I exhibited throughout the trek. Despite the occasional pauses to catch our breath and savor the surroundings, one particular stop served a dual purpose – shielding us from an unexpected downpour, ensuring we remained dry and comfortable during our descent.







During my descent, I found a companion in a local elderly man who became my temporary comrade. His words painted a vivid picture of the village, sharing insights into the intricacies of the terrain, the alleged mismanagement of government grants for its maintenance, and anecdotes about the locally cultivated plants and fruits. As our conversation unfolded, he even ventured into my personal life, inquiring about my marriage plans and offering friendly advice, asserting that tying the knot was a prudent move, especially since I had crossed the age of 30.
As we approached the main point, the familiar starting point of the trek to Lapah after Barshangarh waterfall, the group diverged, opting for a different road leading to another village. Meanwhile, I was instructed to continue my journey towards Shangarh, parting ways with my companions as the trails led in separate directions. In the midst of misty surroundings, at this elevated height, I found myself almost walking alongside the clouds. The mist gracefully enveloped the mountains, creating a pristine and ethereal scenery that unfolded with every step.








Upon reaching the picturesque Barshangarh, the heavens opened up, and I sought refuge, taking a small yet necessary halt until the pouring rain transformed into a gentle drizzle. Once the weather granted me passage, I embarked on a unique interlude. With the soothing sound of raindrops as my lullaby, I reached Shangarh and headed to Mountain View Cafe. I reclined in the Ted’s cabin, succumbing to a tranquil hour-long nap. Emerging from my temporary cocoon, I decided to shed the weariness of the trek with a refreshing shower, the rivulets of water washing away both the physical and mental fatigue. Driven by the aroma of simplicity, I strolled over to the neighboring Anamcara Homestay for a lunch that promised the heartiness of daal chawal. The flavors danced on my palate, offering a moment of culinary bliss in the midst of nature’s grandeur. Returning to the cabin, I allowed the day’s experiences to settle, relishing a well-earned respite. As the evening unfurled its hues, I made my way to the departure point for the bus back to Delhi. The journey, the beauty of rain-kissed landscapes, homely meals, and rejuvenating respites, concluded with a blend of tranquility and cherished memories.
Amidst the comforting ambiance of Anamcara homestay, my lunch took an unexpected turn as I encountered a kindred spirit—a fellow traveler bound for Aut. Recognizing the synergy of our destinations, we decided to forge ahead together, turning what was once a solitary journey into a shared adventure. As the sun dipped below the horizon, I took charge of the evening’s logistics. Booking a cab for our joint venture, it efficiently whisked us away to Aut. In this collaborative effort, the fare was effortlessly divided, allowing both of us to enjoy the convenience of a private ride while sharing the financial load. The unexpected camaraderie and shared taxi ride added a delightful camaraderie to the tail end of my journey.







What is the best time to trek from Shangarh to Lapah?
The ideal time for the trek is during the post-monsoon season, usually from September to November, when the weather is pleasant and the landscapes are lush and vibrant.
How difficult is the trek from Shangarh to Lapah?
The trek to Lapah has varying levels of difficulty, with some steep and challenging sections. It is recommended for moderately experienced trekkers, and a reasonable level of fitness is advisable.
Are there accommodations available in Lapah village?
Lapah offers limited accommodations, including guest houses. It’s advisable to check availability in advance, especially during peak trekking seasons.
What are the must-have essentials for the trek to Lapah?
Essential items include sturdy hiking boots, weather-appropriate clothing, a trekking pole, a reliable backpack, water bottles, snacks, a first aid kit, etc.
How long does the trek from Shangarh to Lapah typically take?
The trek to Lapah can take enough time, requiring around 6-7 hours of hiking from Shangarh. Factors like fitness level, weather conditions, and group pace can influence the duration.
Are there guides available for the Shangarh to Lapah trek?
Local guides familiar with the terrain can be arranged in Shangarh. They provide valuable insights into the route, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable trekking experience.
Can the Shangarh to Lapah trek be done solo?
While solo trekking is possible, it’s advisable to trek with a group or a guide for safety reasons, especially in remote areas. Informing someone about your plans is also recommended.
What are the weather conditions like during the post-monsoon season in the Shangarh to Lapah trekking region?
Are there any cafes in Lapah?
There are cafes in Shangarh, and you’ll find options available until Barshangarh waterfall. However, beyond that point, there are no cafes or eateries along the trek route. It’s recommended to plan accordingly and carry sufficient food and water for the latter part of the journey.