Mussoorie in monsoon has a charm that’s hard to put into words. The hills turn greener, the waterfalls roar louder, and the mist wraps around everything like a dream. But the truth is, the same monsoon that makes the mountains beautiful also makes them dangerous. News about landslides, floods, and road closures in Himachal and Uttarakhand kept popping up on my feed right before my trip. It was enough to make me second-guess my plan.
Still, it was my birthday, and I wanted the mountains to be part of it. The solution was to avoid the highly sensitive areas and choose a safer destination. And that’s when I decided to travel to Mussoorie in monsoon for my birthday. It felt like the perfect balance: close enough to the real Himalayan experience, but not as risky as the higher-altitude regions during heavy rains.
After a lot of back and forth, and with a slight concern in my heart, I finally booked a sleeper bus to Mussoorie from Delhi. The ticket cost me around 1500 INR, which isn’t bad, but I’m sure you can get it for cheaper if you plan your trips in advance. Since I usually travel unplanned, I end up paying a little extra and just rolling with it.
The sleeper bus journey was decent overall. I had booked an upper deck, but it only came with curtains. Honestly, I wish there were sliding doors or at least something sturdier for privacy and compactness. With just a curtain, you keep wondering what happens if you roll over in your sleep or if the bus takes a sharp turn. Add to that my six-foot height, and you can imagine the struggle. Let’s just say I spent more time awake than asleep that night.
A Rainy Birthday Escape: Mussoorie in Monsoon
The Cab Scam That Turned a Birthday Morning Upside Down
The bus reached Dehradun around 6 in the morning, and from there Zingbus arranged a cab to Mussoorie that dropped me near Library Chowk. The same cab driver then offered to take me directly to my homestay for 200 INR, while he said that the other cab drivers would charge 400–500 INR. It sounded like a fair deal, so I agreed.
Turns out, it wasn’t. He dropped me near Mall Road and casually told me that cabs weren’t allowed beyond that point, so I’d have to walk the rest of the way. Classic scam. Please avoid falling for it. And guess what? That “short walk” turned into more than an hour of dragging myself and my bag through the misty streets. Not exactly the birthday morning I had pictured.
Paneer Momos and Misty Mussoorie at Christ Church
I stopped at a small street-side spot called Momo Café and ordered hot, steaming paneer momos. It sat right in front of Christ Church, one of Mussoorie’s most iconic landmarks. The whole area was wrapped in a thick blanket of mist, and for a moment, Mussoorie in monsoon felt like a Romantic-era painting, moody, dramatic, and breathtakingly beautiful.
The Uphill Struggle to Check In at Himalayan View Stay
From there, I continued my uphill walk, blindly following Google Maps. After more than an hour of climbing and hiking with my bag, I finally called the homestay owner, hoping for a break. That’s when I got the shocker: their checkout time was 11 AM, and since it wasn’t even 10 yet, I couldn’t check in. He casually suggested I head back to Mall Road and grab breakfast until the room was ready.
So, all that effort, cab fare, and uphill slog just to walk back again. With a sigh, I made my way down to Mall Road and landed at Cafe Tea Totaler, right next to Hotel Padmini which, fun fact, was the original pickup point. The host told me to wait there and promised someone would come to collect me.
I barely had time to pull out my toothbrush from the bag to freshen up when the host called again saying the room was ready and I should wait at Hotel Padmini.
Read Here – Mussoorie Cafes You Can’t Miss
Balcony Views and Hidden Charms of the Homestay
The guy finally came and picked me up from Hotel Padmini, and I checked into the homestay. It was a cute little place called Himalayan View Stay, perched on a small hillock. The room itself was tiny but had everything I wanted: a bed with an attached washroom, ceiling lights, bedside lamps, a fan, a TV, a table, and most importantly, charging points right next to the bed (a must for me).
The room opened into a balcony with a table and two chairs. It wasn’t completely private since it continued through to the next room, but I didn’t mind. The real highlight was the view. From that height, you could see Mussoorie in monsoon stretched out like a painting, with clouds floating past and the entire valley turning different shades of green. It was simple, quiet, and absolutely breathtaking.
Riding Through the Mist: Monsoon Roads and Scooty Escapades
I took a shower, relaxed for a while, and then headed out. The homestay owner gave me a list of places to explore along with his personal anecdotes, and that’s exactly why I prefer homestays over hotels. The recommendations always feel real and personal, never scripted.
I headed to Mall Road in Mussoorie. I rented a scooty there for 400 INR per day (even the homestay owner asked me to not pay more than 400 INR). The moment you step onto Mall Road, you’re bombarded by people offering rooms and vehicles on rent. It’s everywhere, and honestly, it feels the same as stepping out of a metro station in Delhi with auto drivers swarming around you.
I topped up the scooty with 200 INR fuel and set off. By then, half the day was already gone, so I decided to first head straight to Landour Bakehouse. The ride wasn’t the easiest. Hate it or love it, Landour Bakehouse is a must-visit place in Mussoorie, but getting there can be a bit of a task. Between dodging traffic and handling the steep uphill climb at points, the scooty was at full throttle and still sounded like it was begging for mercy. But that’s the thing about Mussoorie in monsoon. The effort always pays off when you finally reach somewhere.
The first stop was the famous Chaar Dukan, the iconic spot of Mussoorie. This place is known for its history, old-world charm, and the fact that even celebrities drop by to enjoy their pancakes and ginger honey tea. I’m not much of a tea person, so I went for a banana Nutella pancake instead. It was delicious, though a little overpriced for what it was. The funny thing is, during my first visit here back in May 2023, I had ordered just a simple nimbu pani. Don’t remember the exact price, but I think it was somewhere around 100 rupees.
One thing to note is that there’s only paid parking around here. Right next to Chaar Dukan is St. Paul’s Church. I somehow managed to park the scooty secretly for a while, but eventually had to pay the parking fee anyway (50 INR, which covered both Kellogg Church and the Bakehouse).
The parking area was basically at the church, and from there you have to walk to the Bakehouse. It’s just a short 10-minute walk, and honestly, with a soft drizzle falling that day, it felt beautiful. Mussoorie in monsoon has this effortless romantic vibe with mist in the air, wet streets, and that quiet calm you can’t get in peak season.
As usual, Landour Bakehouse had a wait time. I got my name registered, waited for about ten minutes, and finally got a seat. Though my seat was changed three times before I could actually settle down.
Pro tip: if you’re going there in a large group, be prepared to wait even longer.
Funny thing is, during my last visit I got a seat without any wait at all. This time I ordered the spicy loon and cheese roll. It came out warm, flaky, and with this smell that was tempting, mouthwatering, and honestly irresistible. The thing with this place is it always divides people. Some travelers rave about it, others feel it’s overhyped.
Misty Rain and Kellogg Church
After finishing up at the Bakehouse, I headed back to Kellogg Church and spent about ten minutes trying to click that perfect romantic shot of its old colonial architecture. The stone walls, pointed arches, and the way the mist wrapped around it made the place look straight out of a period drama. By this time, the rain had started to get heavier. With the weather turning misty and the sky getting darker, the smartest move was to head out before things got messy.
And then it happened. The drizzle turned into a heavy downpour and I had to take shelter at a viewpoint near Paprika Restro Cafe. Like me, a bunch of other people were stuck there too. The spot was right on a steep turn along an inclined slope, and with the rain hammering down, the road looked way too risky to ride on.
I waited there for what felt like forever, just watching the rain crash against the valley. Finally, when it calmed down a little, though it was still pouring lightly, I decided to leave. The scooty guy had already called me three times reminding me to return the vehicle by 8 PM, so I had no choice but to push through the rain and make my way back.
I reached Mall Road, called the guy, handed him the scooty, and then sat down near the Gandhi Statue. The whole place was wrapped in fog, painting the night sky in darker and darker strokes. After spending some quiet time there, I rang up my homestay owner for a pickup.
By then, I was dead tired. I hadn’t slept properly on the sleeper bus, which had been the whole point of booking it in the first place. Back at the room, I peeled off my wet clothes and just crashed into bed. A couple of birthday calls came in, but honestly, I was out cold till the next morning.
The next morning, I woke up around 7. The day felt fresh and a little sunny, so the first thing I did was take a quick shower and put all my wet clothes and drenched boots out in the sun to dry. Breakfast was complimentary, so I asked for aloo paratha with achaar. Simple, but the kind of food that feels perfect in the mountains. The real highlight though was the terrace of the homestay. It was a wide open space with tables and chairs, and the views from there were absolutely stunning. To make it even better, the homestay’s pet dog joined me, which made the whole morning even more cheerful.
Breakfast was ready, and I took it out to the balcony. The soft, hot meal in my hands contrasted perfectly with the chilly mountain air, while the mist draped over the majestic peaks made the view even more surreal.
Soon it was time to check out. I settled the bill and strolled towards Mall Road, passing the iconic Christ Church. It was Sunday, and part of me wanted to step inside, but other plans called. The church bells tolled softly, adding a gentle soundtrack to my morning walk.
Reaching Mall Road, I called the same scooty rental guy as before. Another vendor offered me a ride for 250 INR, but I stuck with loyalty, even if the scooty guy didn’t care. Keys in hand, I hopped on and made my way to George Everest Peak, ready for the next adventure.
The next leg of the journey, roughly an hour long though it didn’t feel that long, was pure magic. Leaving Mussoorie’s chaos behind, I drove into a greener, quieter part of the hills. Dense forests lined the winding roads, with barely a soul in sight, making the drive feel dreamy and cinematic. I couldn’t resist stopping a few times to capture that perfect Instagram shot, and what should have been a short drive stretched into a full hour, especially after a tiny detour; I missed a turn and had to backtrack.
Therapeutic Trails: Pine-Scented Paths and Misty Forests
Finally, I reached the parking area and decided to take the hike. Walking has always been my favorite way to explore, and here, surrounded by towering trees and fresh mountain air, every step felt like a little adventure.
The hike was incredible. It was beautiful, calming, and surprisingly soothing. A narrow trail wound through towering pine trees on both sides. The fresh mountain air flowing through them felt almost therapeutic with every breath.
I reached Everest Base Camp, a resort tucked in the middle of the forest. I refreshed myself with a glass of nimbu pani to recharge and bought a raincoat for 50 rupees as light rain began to fall. From there, I continued my hike up to the entrance. The entry ticket was 200 rupees, with an additional 200 for parking.
Rain, Tickets, and Smart Bag Drops: The Gate Experience
The best part was that I could leave my bag at the gate. The guard assured me it would be safe, which made the climb much easier. Carrying a heavy bag all the way to the peak would have been exhausting, so this little convenience felt like a blessing.
I reached the next parking spot at the museum. You can either leave your vehicle at the parking lot at the start of the hike and walk, or take it all the way to the museum parking lot. Once I arrived at the main starting point from George Everest House, which is a museum, I had to fill out a form. It basically warned that if anything happened during the hike, it was my responsibility to be careful.
The Final Ascent: When Mussoorie in Monsoon Plays Tricks on You
From there, the last leg of the George Everest Peak hike began. This was the real uphill stretch. It is not very difficult, but if it is your first time, you will definitely question your life choices a few times along the way. Every step makes you sweat and huff, but then Mussoorie in the monsoon hits you with a sudden wave of beauty that almost makes you forgive the pain. Mist curls around the trees, the greenery is so vibrant it almost glows, and the soft patter of rain makes the whole trail feel like a movie set.
There is a small cafe on the way to the peak. Prices are ridiculous, so carry your own water and snacks. I ended up buying a half-liter water bottle for 50 rupees. It felt like daylight robbery, but at least it kept me hydrated. Don’t litter anywhere, because this place is too beautiful to trash.
George Everest Peak Adventure: Hiking Through Mussoorie in Monsoon Mist
Finally, I reached the peak. The monsoon had wrapped Mussoorie in thick mist, so visibility was almost zero. The panoramic views I had been dreaming about were nowhere to be seen. I tried squinting, thinking maybe the clouds would clear, but no luck. And of course, a group of Gen Z visitors was there doing their thing. Dancing, lip-syncing, jumping around, filming every cringe moment. I couldn’t help but roll my eyes, but hey, it added a bit of chaotic energy to the otherwise serene hike.
Even with the mist and the dancing distractions, being up there felt amazing. The air is so fresh it makes your lungs happy. The soft drizzle, the sound of the forest around, the smell of wet pine, and the silence broken only by the occasional laughter or footsteps makes the peak feel like a secret spot you’ve earned by walking up yourself. I sat down for a few minutes just soaking it in, letting the wind and mist hit my face. It wasn’t the view I wanted, but it was exactly the kind of raw, unfiltered experience that makes hiking worth it.
There were two peaks, and I climbed both. Looking at the time and thinking about the ride back to Delhi, I decided it was time to leave. After reaching Library Chowk, I handed over the vehicle to the guy and headed straight to Jeet Restaurant.
The place was buzzing with local flavor. Old photographs of Mussoorie from the past, pictures of locals, and traditional paintings on the walls made the space feel real and authentic. I ordered their Uttarakhandi thali for 620 rupees. When it came, it looked like a royal feast. The taste was just lipsmacking, every bite reminding me why local food is always the best.
After dinner, I just roamed around, letting the evening air hit my face, and waited for the cab. About 40 minutes later, it arrived and took me to the boarding point, marking the end of a crazy, beautiful Mussoorie trip.
