Gandhak ki baoli

Gandhak ki Baoli – A 13th century abandoned stepwell in Mehrauli

For me, Mehrauli was all about Qutub Minar. That’s what I had read in school history textbooks. Or maybe, the glory of Qutub Minar outshined all other small monuments located around it. Even I wasn’t aware of the monuments located within Qutub Minar complex, be it the tomb of Iltutamish or the tomb of Imam Zamin, and that too when I had visited Qutub Minar twice. It took me a long to know and study the other monuments; after my third visit. When I visited Mehrauli Archaeological Park second time in December 2020 (first week), I planned to visit Gandhak ki Baoli. Trust me, even local Delhites don’t know if there is any place that existed by such a name. 

When it comes to stepwells in Delhi, most people only know Agrasen ki Baoli. To my mind, that stepwell got famous after the movie PK where the main character of the movie is seen sitting on the steps of the stepwells. If you talk about Gandhak ki Baoli, it is one of the lesser-known places to visit in Delhi. Only the people living around can tell or if someone who has visited this stepwell. Otherwise, you will have to do your own research and homework to reach here. It took me a lot to reach here and that too when I was so close to the Baoli. Even one of the security guards of the park couldn’t tell me where the Baoli was located. 

gandhak ki baoli

History and Architecture of Gandhak ki Baoli

Gandhak ki Baoli was built during the regime of Iltutamish (1211 – 1236), the ruler of the Slave Dynasty. If the legends are to be believed, Iltutamish once visited the famous Sufi Saint Hazrat Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki who lived in the Mehrauli area. He came to know that the area suffered extreme water crisis and even the Sufi saint had problems taking baths regularly. Thus, to overcome the water problem of the area, he got Gandhak ki Baoli built which supplied water to the area for several years. 

 

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gandhak ki baoli

Gandhak ki Baoli is a simple stepwell. It isn’t adored the way Rajon ki Baoli has been beautified and decorated. This Baoli is said to be the deepest in the city, going down to five floors below the ground level. The structure is now a protected monument though it lacks proper attention and maintenance. 

gandhak ki baoli

Why was this stepwell named Gandhak ki Baoli?

Gandhak ki Baoli was named so because of the smell of Gandhak (Sulfur). It is said that the water of the stepwell contained sulfur and that’s how it was named. Sulfur is supposed to have medicinal properties and can cure several skin diseases. Records say that the smell was so rich that one could feel it till Mehrauli bus terminus. Now since the Baoli remains dried, it no more smells sulfur. 

 

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gandhak ki baoli

When I reached here on my one day tour of Mehrauli Archaeological Park, I visited Gandhak ki Baoli and I was pretty disappointed to see the condition of such an ancient monument. The Baoli which witnessed a lot since the 13th century now became a garbage dumping zone. The stepwell was covered with fences from all the sides to avoid entry and the gate too was locked. I had a word with a man who had his home adjacent to the Baoli. I was told that some people had died in the Baoli thus it was locked to prevent any human entry. Also, he told me that people used to take bath in it; they would do swimming, wash clothes, etc. 

 

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gandhak ki baoli

This stepwell can be reached easily from Mehrauli bus terminus. If you are coming from the metro side, that would be a longer route. You may consider taking a bus to Mehrauli bus terminus and taking a short walk from here. The nearest metro station is Qutub Minar metro station on the yellow line. The Baoli is located outside Mehrauli Archaeological Park. 

 

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Gandhak ki Boali today stands in utter silence, waiting for its fate but centuries ago, it was a major water resource for the area. Looking at the condition, I could sense that very little attention was paid to the monument and its dilapidated condition seemed pathetic. Delhi is home to such monuments; some of them are on the verge of collapsing. 

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