Mehrauli, the land of monuments, is full of lots of lesser-known sites. One of my favorite places to explore during weekends in Delhi; this area often surprises with its cultural, architectural, and archaeological significance. If I recollect my high school history classes, the first description of Mehrauli that I came across was Qutub Minar, though I got to know about this place’s historical importance very late and I mean very late. This year only, on a wintery Sunday evening, I roamed in the streets of Mehrauli and explored some places. And one of the monuments that I encountered was the tomb of Adham Khan.
It wasn’t my first time to visit Mehrauli. It wasn’t even the first time to come across the tomb of Adham Khan but I never visited Mehrauli intending to visit this interesting monument. I did a photoshoot here, for Tanuj, on his birthday and that was the longest time I spent here. I only knew that there was a monument known as Bhul Bhulaiya. It was told to me by Garima (my senior at HT Campus, back in 2017). She is from Mehrauli. I thought Adham Khan’s tomb was just an abandoned tomb but the history behind it caught my attention and I had to change my thought. Moreover, my love for ancient, forgotten monuments made me appreciate it more.
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So for whom was the tomb built?
Adham Khan was the younger son of Akbar’s wet nurse, Maham Anga. Hence, he was Akbar’s foster brother. He was married to Javeda Begum who was the daughter of Baqi Khan Baqlani. Adham Khan was a nobleman in Akbar’s court and was appointed as general. Akbar appointed Atagah Khan as his prime minister in November 1561. He was the husband of another wet nurse. Atagah Khan replaced Munim Khan.
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It is said that his appointment disappointed Maham Anga. Adham Khan murdered Atagah Khan on May 16, 1562. Later, Akbar found that Atagah Khan, whom he considered as his father, was murdered by Adham Khan, who was his foster brother. This betrayal made him furious and he ordered to kill him. Adham Khan was executed by defenestration. He was thrown from Agra Fort’s ramparts. It is said that he didn’t die in the first attempt thus he was thrown twice and then he died ultimately.
In another event, Akbar sent Adham Khan (in 1561) to capture Malwa (present MP) which was ruled over by Baz Bahadur, an Afghan. Adham Khan not only captured Malwa but also assassinated a lot of people, captured Baz Bahadur’s harem, and his wife, Roopmati, who was known for her beauty, poisoned herself to death. Adham Khan only sent three elephants to Akbar though the news of his activities also reached the emperor.
History behind Adham Khan’s Tomb – The First Mughal Tomb in India
Yes, one of the most interesting things I got to know about Adham Khan’s tomb is that it was the first Mughal tomb to be built in India. Humayun’s Tomb was built a century after the tomb of Adham Khan. Babur’s tomb is in Kabul. Thus, Adham Khan’s tomb is the first Mughal tomb. The tomb is a protected monument and is under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India.
The tomb was constructed in 1562. There were two graves in the tomb. One belonged to Adham Khan and the other one belonged to his mother. His mother died in grief on the 40th day of his death. Thus, both the mother and son were buried here in this tomb. However, later the graves were broken down and today only one grave in the center is present. But it isn’t the original grave of Adham Khan.
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Architecture of tomb of Adham Khan – Lodhi Architecture was used so that He could be Remembered as a Traitor
Adham Khan’s tomb is built in an octagonal shape. The octagonal tomb isn’t part of Mughal architecture. Mughal tombs were mostly square or rectangular. The octagonal plan of this tomb was taken from Lodhi architecture. Mughals considered Lodhis traitors. Adham Khan too had betrayed Akbar. Thus, his tomb was built in an octagonal shape, resembling Lodhi tombs, so that he could be remembered as a traitor in history.
The tomb is based on a raised platform. Octagonal walls enclose the tomb. In the middle, there is an octagonal chamber with a dome on the top. Every side of the octagonal phase has an open verandah and three openings of every phase open to the verandah. A massive red sandstone finial crowns the colossal dome. There a high neck that has 16 sided drums and it supports the dome. You can trace the remains of wall ornamentation especially the flower patterns on the walls, and the plasterwork. Also, you can spot kangura patterns, leaf motifs, calligraphies on the walls in traces. Inside the tomb, you will see blue painted medallion, blacks and reds scatter, etc. The main material used in the construction is the grey stone used with plaster.
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Why is Adham Khan’s Tomb known as Bhool Bhulaiya?
The tomb is locally famous as Bhool Bhulaiya. If you come to Mehrauli and ask any local about the tomb of Adham Khan, you may not get the answer. People don’t know the monument by its original name. You ask them about Bhool Bhulaiya and they will tell you. There is a famous story behind it. The monument was used as a guest house.
As per locals, once there was a wedding party. A group of people who came to attend the marriage stayed here and slept in the night since it was a guest house. The next morning, no one was found. People thought they were lost somewhere in or around the monument only. Thus, it was named Bhool Bhulaiya. Though the area of Mehrauli, Lal Kot, etc. is forest and one probable conclusion is that they got lost in the forest and attacked by some beast. These are the famous folklores. Even the same story is also narrated about my hometown’s fort. It is said that there was a tunnel at one corner of the fort which used to open in Narnaul and once a baraat got lost into it. The tunnel was closed after that. The same goes for Dhosi Hills and Madhogarh Fort.
Tomb of Adham Khan was used as Police Station, Post Office, and Guest House
When the Mughal regime was uprooted and things got changed in the country, the monument was left abandoned. A British army officer of Bengal Civil Service, named Blake, came here and transformed the tomb into his personal residence. He removed both graves to use the space as his dining area. However, he died and this tomb was used as a guest house. After that, the monument was also converted into and police station and later, it was used as a post office. It was also used as a rest house.
It was Lord Curzon who ordered to restore the tomb to what it was. Thus, the tomb was restored. Adham Khan’s grave was also restored. But no one knows about Maham Anga’s grave. If you visit today, you will only see one grave in a ruined condition, in the center of the tomb.
Where is Adham Khan’s Tomb Located? How to Reach?
The tomb is located near Mehrauli Bus Terminus. It is based on a raised plinth so it is easily visible from the road and nearby areas. The nearest metro station is Qutub Minar or Sakte Metro Station on Yellow Line and you can take a bus going to Mehrauli Bus Terminus. Get down there and that’s how you reach the tomb of Adham Khan in Mehrauli.
Ticket and Timing of Adham Khan’s Tomb
Adham Khan’s tomb in Mehrauli is one of the entry free monuments in Delhi which means you don’t have to pay anything to enter here. Just walk in and explore. Kindly ensure that you don’t throw plastics (bottles, food wrappers, etc.) and only throw them in the dustbin. The timings of the monument are from dawn to dusk. Since it is a ‘not so protected’ monument, you can come at any time of the day. I assume that the security guard locks the gate by the night.
Adham Khan’s tomb is a famous place to visit in Mehrauli. It is mostly used by the locals as a hangout place. During winters, they would come here, sit, relax, or even sleep in the sun. Kids play around in the verandah and you may even find couples sitting on the backside of the monument. It’s a famous meetup point as well.
I haven’t explored all the monuments of Delhi but I plan to visit at least those monuments which are on my list. Delhi has countless such monuments that are left ignored yet their history has been glorious. If you have been to such monuments in Delhi or elsewhere, let me know in the comment section below.
This is so interesting! Delhi has some of the real gems, which are never talked about. Glad you wrote about this beautiful place.
Delhi is a land of such monuments. My love for Delhi is eternal.
Thanks for your words of inspiration.
Stay happy.