St. Augustine Tower: Where History Meets Mystery in Old Goa

Nestled within the enchanting labyrinth of Old Goa, a realm where time and history intertwine, stand the ruins of St. Augustine Tower which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its presence is a living testament to the storied past of this vibrant corner of India. As you wander through the cobbled streets and alleyways, it’s impossible to miss the imposing silhouette of this architectural marvel. The tower’s dignified stance invites you to delve into the mysteries and memories that permeate the very air of Old Goa.

In the early 16th century, Augustinian friars set foot on the shores of Goa, a Portuguese colony brimming with life and diversity. With unwavering determination, they embarked on a grand project—a church that would embody their faith and the magnificence of their era. St. Augustine Tower was the belfry accompanying this splendid church, designed to resonate with the harmony of devotion and architectural brilliance.

Over the centuries, it has stood as a silent sentinel, bearing witness to the passage of empires, the rise and fall of dynasties, and the ebb and flow of time itself. Each weathered stone of the tower tells a tale, and the echoes of history resound with every step you take. Join me in uncovering the enigmatic allure of Old Goa’s enduring legacy.

One fine evening, as the golden sun dipped below the horizon, I found myself amidst the narrow, winding streets of Old Goa. Each cobbled path held a story, each quaint corner whispered echoes of the past. And as I meandered through the Latin quarter, an enchanting landmark beckoned from afar—the St. Augustine Tower. However, the clock had struck 5 PM, and the gates were firmly closed, preserving the mysteries of this historic site for another day.

Determined to return, I marked the date in my calendar. The day came, a bright sun illuminating the path to yet another chapter in Goa’s rich history. After a visit to the awe-inspiring Bom Jesus Basilica and an hour of contemplation at St. Francis of Assisi Church and Convent, I eagerly headed towards the ruins of St. Augustine Tower. Its enigmatic presence had already left a mark on my curiosity, and now was the moment to explore its secrets.

1. St. Augustine Tower stood as one of the three distinguished Augustinian churches in the Iberian world, alongside El Escorial and the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, attesting to its historical and spiritual significance.
2. An interesting fact: the bell that now resides at Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church originally belonged to St. Augustine’s Tower, underlining the interconnected histories of these iconic landmarks.
3. In the world of cinema, the ruins of St. Augustine Tower made a memorable appearance in the song “Gumnaam Hai Koi” from the 1965 suspense thriller movie “Gumnaam,” leaving an indelible mark in popular culture.

Perched atop Monte Santo (Holy Hill) in Old Goa, St. Augustine Tower has stood the test of time, bearing witness to the passage of centuries and the shifting tides of history. The foundations of this monumental structure were laid between 1597 and 1602 by the dedicated Augustinian friars who made landfall in Goa in 1587.

During its heyday, the Church of St. Augustine was celebrated as one of the three great Augustinian churches in the Iberian world, alongside illustrious counterparts such as El Escorial and the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora.

However, the echoes of history hold not only glory but also tales of abandonment. In 1835, the Portuguese government of Goa initiated a repressive policy, leading to the eviction of numerous religious orders from the region. The fate of the Church of St. Augustine took a somber turn as neglect slowly took its toll. The vault of the church crumbled in 1842, followed by the collapse of the church structure itself. In 1871, the bell, once perched in the tower, found a new home at Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church in Panjim, where it remains to this day.

The passage of time was unkind to this grand edifice. By 1931, the facade of the church and half of the tower had crumbled, and subsequent years saw further disintegration. Today, only half of the tower remains, yet it stands as a poignant testament to the resilience of history.

Intriguingly, the ruins of St. Augustine Tower found their way into popular culture, featuring in the 1965 suspense thriller movie “Gumnaam” through the song “Gumnaam Hai Koi” and in the Bollywood hit “Singham” through the song “Saathiya.”

St. Augustine Tower, serving as the church’s belfry, stood tall at nearly 46 meters, a testament to the grandeur of the Augustinian mission in Goa. Its primary purpose was not only to announce the divine call to prayer but also to stand as a symbol of religious influence in the region.

In the context of Old Goa’s colonial history, St. Augustine Tower represented more than mere religious symbolism. It mirrored the convergence of European and Indian architectural styles, embodying the fusion that characterized the cultural exchange during the Portuguese colonial era. Its construction not only marked the religious zeal of the Augustinians but also served as a landmark of the colonial legacy that has imprinted itself on Goa’s history.

The splendor of St. Augustine Tower extends far beyond its historical significance. It is a testament to architectural prowess, blending European and Indian influences into a breathtaking colonial-era masterpiece.

The enduring tower, which stands resolute to this day, consists of four stories and is constructed from laterite, a locally abundant stone. The bell that once graced the tower had an intriguing journey, first being relocated to Fort Aguada and ultimately finding its current home at Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church.

The original structure of the church was a splendid complex. It featured eight chapels, four altars, and an attached convent. The convent was an architectural marvel in its own right, comprising three levels with two cloisters, numerous corridors, galleries, and stately pillars. This complex was a reflection of the grandeur and spiritual significance that the Church of St. Augustine held during its prime, and though much has crumbled with time, what remains continues to captivate visitors with its historical charm.

Design and Construction:

The towering silhouette of St. Augustine Tower boasts a design that was nothing short of grandeur. Rising to nearly 46 meters, the tower stands as a symbol of both devotion and architectural brilliance. Its façade, adorned with intricate details, echoes the resplendence of the Augustinian vision.

The construction of this architectural marvel involved an intricate combination of stone, mortar, and artistic skill. The Augustinians harnessed the local laterite stone, which was abundantly available in Goa, to craft the tower’s sturdy foundations. Its grandeur was further accentuated by the use of precious materials imported from afar.

Influences on Design:

The design of St. Augustine Tower beautifully marries elements from both European and Indian architectural traditions. The Portuguese colonial legacy is evident in the European-inspired motifs, arches, and ornamental details that adorn the structure. It stands as a vivid example of how European architectural styles blended harmoniously with the Indian ethos, resulting in a unique fusion of artistry.

The tower’s intricate design, inspired by the Gothic and Baroque styles, pays homage to the European architectural sensibilities of its time. However, its seamless incorporation of Indian elements, such as decorative friezes and motifs, creates a cultural tapestry that tells the story of cultural exchange during the Portuguese colonial era.

A Colossal Marvel:

Perched atop the Monte Santo (Holy Hill) at Velha Goa, this towering edifice was once part of the Augustinian monastery. The Augustinians, known for their commitment to spirituality and knowledge, left an indelible mark in the form of this grand structure. It was associated with the enormous church of Nossa Senhora da Graca (Our Lady of Grace) and became one of the four towers of St. Augustine Church, which once graced this site.

An Italian Influence:

This architectural marvel, almost forty-six meters high and built of laterite, boasted four storeys. While the name of the designer remains shrouded in history, there are indications of Italian influence in its creation. The blending of European and Indian architectural elements created a unique masterpiece.

Julio Simao’s Impact:

The tower’s construction commenced during the same year as the arrival of Julio Simao (1565-1641) in Goa, who played a pivotal role in its design. Simao, the chief architect of the Indian colonies appointed by Philip II, was influenced by the renowned Spanish architect Juan de Herrera (1530-1597). This infusion of European architectural styles and ideas found a new expression in St. Augustine Tower.

A Triad of Augustinian Grandeur:

Upon its completion in the 16th century, the grand Nossa Senhora da Graca Church and its attached tower gained recognition as one of the three great Augustinian churches in the Iberian world. The other two were the Basilica of the Escorial in Spain and St. Vincente de Fora in Lisbon. This distinction highlighted the significance of the St. Augustine Tower in the realm of ecclesiastical architecture.

In its prime, the Church of St. Augustine was a colossal and magnificent structure, a true testament to Augustinian grandeur. The interior of the church was a spectacle to behold, with visitors treated to the sight of a grand retable adorning the high altar. This retable, embellished with gold leaf, was sheltered within a majestic arch and could be viewed through a screen of arched piers.

The church featured a soaring vaulted roof, a remarkable architectural feat. However, tragedy struck as the weight of the vault led to its collapse between 1842 and 1846. Interestingly, there’s a tale that the vault had fallen twice during its construction. To ensure its stability, the architect resorted to a daring test, ordering a heavy cannon to be fired within the building, with his own son standing inside. Miraculously, the vault withstood the shock, securing its place as an architectural wonder.

Step inside the church, and you’re greeted by a breathtaking sight—the grand retable of the high altar. A large gilt tabernacle, sheltered within an arch, emerges through a screen of arched piers. The remnants of these piers were visible until recently, a testament to the grandeur that once filled the space. They once provided support for a spacious choir that could have accommodated a significant number of Augustinian monks.

The church’s nave, however, now lies open to the sky. Beneath its broken arches, locals often gather to converse, their voices echoing through the remnants of this once-majestic structure. A barrel vault once stretched overhead, covering the vast nave. However, the weight of time and neglect hastened its unfortunate collapse.

The journey of St. Augustine Tower is a profound narrative, marked by its glorious ascent and the subsequent descent into the annals of history, where it resides as a captivating relic of times gone by.

The Rise:

In the early 17th century, St. Augustine Tower stood as a towering testament to the Augustinian mission in Goa. It was a monument of grandeur and architectural excellence, part of the grand complex that included the Church of St. Augustine. The Augustinians, driven by their sacred devotion, etched this masterpiece into the Goan landscape. It ascended to unparalleled heights, establishing itself as one of the great Augustinian churches worldwide, a resplendent jewel in the crown of its era.

The Decline and Abandonment:

The church’s magnificent journey took a tragic turn in 1835, a fateful year when the Portuguese government implemented repressive policies in Goa. These policies led to the eviction of numerous religious orders, casting a shadow over the Church of St. Augustine. Abandoned and forsaken, the grandeur of the church began to wane, and the wheels of time started to grind away its legacy.

Partial Collapse and Preservation Efforts:

Between 1842 and 1846, the church’s large vaulted roof met its untimely end, succumbing to the weight of years of abandonment. It was a heart-wrenching testimony to the toll that time and neglect can take on even the grandest of structures. The ensuing years bore witness to the further deterioration of the church’s once-majestic facade and the collapse of half of the tower in 1931. By 1938, the remaining parts followed suit.

Today, only half of St. Augustine Tower endures, standing as a sentinel of history. However, amid the ruins, there are those who champion preservation efforts, determined to protect the remnants of this iconic structure. Their dedication ensures that the legacy of St. Augustine Tower remains intact, a beacon of history and a testament to human endeavors.

The echoes of St. Ketevan the Martyr, a courageous Georgian queen, have resonated through time within the precincts of St. Augustine Tower. Her relics, shrouded in mystery and faith, are a remarkable part of this historical narrative.

The Quest for Relics:

In the late 1980s, a dedicated team of archaeologists, hailing from both the Soviet Union and Georgia, embarked on a mission to trace the relics of St. Ketevan. This valiant Georgian queen had voluntarily offered herself as a hostage to Shah Abbas I and ultimately met her martyrdom on September 13, 1624, refusing to renounce her faith. It was believed that her relics lay hidden in Goa.

Excavations and Discoveries:

Archaeological missions, initially led by the Georgians and later complemented by the efforts of the Archaeological Survey of India, converged on the hallowed ground of St. Augustine Tower. Their objective was to unearth a fabled black box that was rumored to contain the saint’s remains. This quest was driven by historical documents dating back to Portuguese missions in the East.

Unveiling a Legacy:

The year 2005 witnessed a significant breakthrough as the ASI’s excavation yielded bone fragments from within the church’s sacred grounds. These fragments were subjected to rigorous DNA analysis at the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology, revealing the presence of the U1b Human mitochondrial DNA haplogroup—an absence in India. The findings, alongside historical records, provided compelling evidence that the bones were most likely those of the revered Queen Ketevan.

The Travelling Hand and Sacred Music:

In tribute to the excavation project, a multimedia board game titled “The Travelling Hand” was created by documentary filmmaker Gayatri Kodikal. Furthermore, the Ketevan World Sacred Music Festival has graced the church complex since 2015, serving as a cultural celebration of faith, history, and the enduring legacy of St. Ketevan.

Within the solemn confines of St. Augustine Tower, the Altar of Our Lady of Sorrow stands as a testament to faith, devotion, and the artistic heritage of a bygone era.

An Emblem of Sorrow and Devotion:

The Altar of Our Lady of Sorrow, an exquisite creation of artistry and spirituality, serves as a focal point of reverence within the church. It pays homage to the Virgin Mary in her aspect as the Lady of Sorrow, a profound representation of her enduring strength in the face of tragedy.

Architectural and Artistic Marvel:

The altar is a harmonious blend of architectural elegance and intricate artistry. Adorned with delicate carvings, gilded details, and vibrant colors, it radiates a sense of awe and devotion. The sculpted figures and religious motifs narrate stories of faith and inspire contemplation.

The Lady’s Grace:

The Altar of Our Lady of Sorrow holds a special place in the hearts of the faithful. It is a place of solace and prayer, where devotees come to seek solace and find strength in the presence of the Lady of Sorrow.

In the heart of St. Augustine Tower, the Altar of St. Nicholas stands as a radiant tribute to a beloved saint, an embodiment of faith and artistic grandeur.

Honoring St. Nicholas:

The Altar of St. Nicholas is a splendid testament to the veneration of St. Nicholas, a revered saint known for his compassion and benevolence. It serves as a place of reverence and devotion for those who seek the saint’s intercession.

Architectural Magnificence:

The altar’s architectural splendor is a sight to behold. It boasts intricate carvings, fine craftsmanship, and a profusion of colors that symbolize the rich spiritual heritage of the church. St. Nicholas, often depicted in resplendent detail, is the central figure, offering a source of inspiration and hope.

The Patron of Many:

St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, travelers, and children, holds a special place in the hearts of the faithful. The altar dedicated to him is not only a work of art but also a source of comfort and solace for those who turn to St. Nicholas in their times of need.

A Beacon of Tradition:

The Altar of St. Nicholas is an enduring symbol of tradition, connecting the present with the past. Its presence within St. Augustine Tower reflects the historical and spiritual continuity that defines this sacred place.

Nestled within the embrace of St. Augustine Tower, the Chapel of St. John is a sanctuary of serenity and spiritual reflection.

A Place of Devotion:

The Chapel of St. John is a place where the faithful come to seek solace and connect with their spirituality. With its hallowed walls and sacred ambiance, it offers a respite from the world’s clamor.

Architectural Beauty:

This chapel is an architectural gem, characterized by its simplicity and elegance. It exudes an aura of peace and devotion, inviting visitors to partake in moments of contemplation and prayer. The high ceilings and classic design contribute to its timeless charm.

St. John the Beloved:

St. John the Apostle, often referred to as “the beloved disciple,” is the patron saint of this chapel. The altar dedicated to him features intricate carvings and religious motifs, serving as a visual reminder of the saint’s significance.

A Sacred Haven:

For those who seek a moment of respite and spiritual connection, the Chapel of St. John provides a sacred haven. It is a place where the soul finds refuge and the heart finds solace.

A Continuation of Tradition:

The Chapel of St. John is a living continuation of the spiritual traditions that have graced St. Augustine Tower for generations. Its presence within this historic church reinforces the enduring link between the past and the present.

Within the historic confines of St. Augustine Tower, the Chapel of Our Lady of Good Success stands as a beacon of hope and devotion, a place where the faithful gather to seek solace and blessings.

An Abode of Faith:

The Chapel of Our Lady of Good Success is a spiritual haven, offering respite to those who come seeking divine grace and comfort. Its sacred atmosphere encourages introspection and prayer, creating a space where faith is nurtured.

Architectural Elegance:

The chapel’s architectural beauty is a testament to the artistic heritage of the era. With its classic design, high ceilings, and intricate details, it exudes an air of timeless elegance. The altar dedicated to Our Lady of Good Success is adorned with delicate carvings, radiating a sense of reverence.

Our Lady of Good Success:

Our Lady of Good Success is a revered Marian title that holds a special place in the hearts of the faithful. The chapel, dedicated to her, serves as a place where devotees come to seek her intercession and find solace in their spiritual journey.

A Sanctuary of Tradition:

The Chapel of Our Lady of Good Success is a living testament to the spiritual traditions that have been upheld within St. Augustine Tower for generations. Its presence is a bridge connecting the past with the present, allowing visitors to partake in the enduring legacy of faith.

Moments of Grace:

Visitors to the chapel find moments of grace and spiritual renewal. It is a place where prayers are offered, hopes are kindled, and faith is reaffirmed.

The weathered stones of St. Augustine Tower whisper tales of enigmatic mysteries and enduring legends, adding a layer of intrigue to its historical narrative.

Whispers of the Past:

As the centuries have passed, St. Augustine Tower has become a repository of stories passed down through generations. Among these tales are whispers of unexplained phenomena and inexplicable events, some of which continue to intrigue and baffle those who visit.

The Mysterious Bell’s Echo:

One of the enduring enigmas is the story of the bell that once graced the tower. Its journey from the tower to Fort Aguada and then to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church carries an air of mystique. Legends abound about the bell’s purpose and the echoes it carries from the past.

The Architectural Riddle:

The intriguing story of the tower’s vault, which allegedly fell twice during construction, raises questions about the challenges faced by its architects. The daring test involving a cannon blast and the architect’s son stands as a mysterious event that continues to pique curiosity.

Local Folklore and Beliefs:

St. Augustine Tower is intertwined with local tales and beliefs. It is said to hold secrets that transcend time, and some believe that the spirit of the church endures, whispering stories to those who care to listen.

The narrative of St. Augustine Tower is etched with remarkable highs and profound declines, shaped by historical events and mysteries that continue to intrigue.

From Augustinians to Misericordia:

After the Augustinian friars, the guardians of this church, relinquished their hold, a new chapter began. The charitable institution of Misericordia took up residence, using the church as a hub for missionary and charity work. It became a sanctuary of solace, exemplifying compassion and service to the community.

Neglect and the Weight of Time:

With the passage of time, the buildings, once vibrant, fell into neglect. The tragic culmination of this neglect was the collapse of the vault on September 8, 1842. This significant event marked the decline of the building’s structural integrity and a poignant symbol of an edifice left to the ravages of time.

The State’s Intervention:

In response to these occurrences, the Goa government stepped in, appropriating the property and selling the materials of the remains of the church in 1843. The fate of this architectural gem was sealed, and the building continued its descent into decay.

A Gradual Unraveling:

The decline continued in the following years. In 1846, the main vault of the church met its demise, and the convent rapidly deteriorated. The facade, an enduring symbol of its grandeur, crumbled on August 8 and 19, 1931. By 1938, the last remnants of the facade, along with the 46-meter-tall tower, had fallen.

The Quest for Queen Ketevan:

Amidst the ruins and the fading echoes of history, an enigmatic tale resided. It was the story of Queen Ketevan of Georgia, her gruesome martyrdom, and the belief that her missing corpse lay hidden beneath these crumbling stones. The Georgian government, for whom Queen Ketevan is the patron saint, turned to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) to seek her resting place, a quest that has spanned 15 years.

In 1613, Shah Abbas, the Emperor of Persia, led an army to conquer the Georgian kingdom, taking Queen Ketevan as a prisoner. Her unwavering faith led to her brutal martyrdom in 1624. The remains of this revered queen were spirited away to Goa by Portuguese clerics who concealed them in the shadow of St. Augustine Tower. Her right hand and right arm were laid to rest in the sacred ground of the church.

In 1835, the church faced an ignominious fate, as the repressive policies of the Portuguese government led to the eviction of many religious orders from Goa. This marked the beginning of the end for a place that had once echoed with the prayers and hymns of devout Augustinian monks.

In 2006, a joint effort between Georgian and ASI experts uncovered the long-lost relics from beneath the window of the church. DNA tests on these remains are being conducted, an endeavor under the auspices of the ASI that seeks to bring Queen Ketevan’s story to light and bridge the gap between history and legend.