Delhi – the land of magnificent monuments never disappoints you with its charming vibes and medieval mysticism. Take a walk across the city and you will be welcomed by any ancient monument. When I heard the name ‘Safdarjang’ for the first time, it was the hospital. I never bothered to know the history behind this name. But years later, I made a list of must visit places in Delhi and this tomb was there in that list. And when I visited it, I realized what a beauty I had been missing all those years. It was September of 2018 (or maybe October) when I picked up my camera, booked the entry ticket of Safdarjang tomb online, boarded the metro from Sultanpur (that’s where I was living back then), and got down at Jorbagh metro station which is the closest metro station to Safdarjang tomb.
You don’t always plan journeys, sometimes journeys plan how you hit the road.
For someone like me who loves exploring historical places, architectures, cultures, etc. this Mughal monument was a surprise with which I treated myself on that day. Before lockdown, I often roamed in the capital city on weekends with my camera and a small bag that carried my essentials like a water bottle, power backup, camera, charmer, etc. When I entered the monument, it was less crowded and that was a good thing for me since I had to capture a lot of photographs of this breathtaking beauty.
Somehow, I found this monument more beautiful than Humayun Tomb. Though no doubt that monument is a wonderful piece of architecture but I guess since that tomb belongs to a Mughal emperor, and while this doesn’t; so, the reason is clear why this tomb doesn’t get that much appreciation. Located just on the main road itself, a few minutes’ walk from the metro station, the tomb of Safdarjang stands with its glory, even today, the way it used to be back then, though the aging has influenced its walls and arches.
This Mughal monument was built in 1754 for the Nawab Safdarjang (Sardar Jang) who was a famous person in the Mughal court. Those were the days when the Mughal empire had started to lose its power and was on the verge to decline. His full name was Abul Mansur Mirza Muhammad Muqim Ali Khan (1708 – October 1754). He was chosen to be the second Nawab Vazier of Awadh. All the Oudh (Awadh) nawabs after him were said to be his descendants. He ruled there during the time of Muhammad Shah.
Safdarjang is said to be a Persian native who came to India in 1722. He succeeded Burhan ul Mulk Saadat Ali Khan I, who was his maternal uncle and father-in-law to become the Subadar Nawab of Oudh on 19th March 1739. It is believed that he bribed Nadir Shah a hefty amount of twenty million rupees. He remained the Nawab for his whole life and was titled Safdarjung by Nasir-ud-Din Muhammad Shah. At the age of 46, he died in October 1754 near Faizabad (Sultanpur). His son Nawab Shujaud Daula was granted the plea to build a tomb in Delhi.
Architecture & Construction of Safdarjang Tomb
The Tomb of Safdarjang is known to be the last Mughal tombs with gardens. The tomb was built following the architecture of Humayun’s Tomb; the influence of which can be easily visible. During the construction of the Safdarjang Tomb, slabs were from Abdul Rahim Khankhanna’s tomb and were used here. Just like any other Mughal emperor tomb, this tomb also has four features, it is based on Char Bagh layout (4 gardens) with the monument constructed in the center, a 9 fold floor plan with a large podium that has a hidden stairway as well as a façade with five parts.
The two-storeyed main entrance of the tomb is the first thing that you will notice. Ornated with intricate carvings with different, vibrant colors (most striking being purple) with plastered surfaces will surely take you by surprise. You will also get to see Arabic inscriptions which translate as
When the hero of the plain bravery departs from the transitory, may he become a resident of God’s paradise.
Isn’t it influential? Take a walk inside and you will witness several rooms and a library at the rear end of the façade. And when you take a look to the right, you will find a three-domed mosque. The giant, two-storeyed entrance hall takes you to the open area where you will see the tomb in front of you. The tomb constructed on a high raised platform looks magnificent. The main monument measures around 92 ft (28 meters) and is chiefly constructed with buff and red sandstone with the use of white marble. The chamber in the center built in the square has 8 partitions along with a centrally located cenotaph. The corner partitions are octagonal, and the middle ones are rectangular.
The interior of the Safdarjang Tomb is perhaps the most striking feature of the monument. The incredible carvings will make you stare at them. Rococo plaster has been used to decorate the interior which gives it an unmatched beauty. The main tomb is guarded by 4 polygonal, kiosk towers with arches decorated. The graves of the statesman and his wife are placed in the underground chamber. The monument has many small pavilions which have been named Jangli Mahal (Palace in the woods), Badshah Pasand (Emperor’s favorite), Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace), etc. These pavilions right now are used as ASI offices however they were believed to be the residences of the stateman’s family.
It is believed that some Ethiopian architecture designed this monument. The central dome tried to match the beauty of the Taj Mahal but it fails though the efforts are marvelous. It lacks symmetry. The towers at the four corners for sure create the imagery of the Taj Mahal here. The water canals that run across the gardens are also similar imprints. This Mughal monument could have been constructed far better.
The Last Mughal Monumental Tomb
Safdarjang tomb is known to be the last Mughal monumental tomb that was built. Mughal regime was losing its grip. Those were the days when the kingdom which was one of the most powerful ones in the country, had started to come to an end. Probably that’s the reason that the beauty of this tomb didn’t match the way it had been constructed. ASI itself has noticed that the construction material used wasn’t of good quality. As per the bishop of Calcutta, Reginald Heber, the tomb had ‘color of potted meat.’ Even when I visited this tomb, I felt that there was something wrong with this. The tomb could have been far more beautiful and elegant than it was.
How to reach Safdarjang Tomb?
The easiest way to reach Safdarjang Tomb is by metro. The tomb is located close to Jorbagh metro station on the yellow line of DMRC. The nearest airport is Safdarjung Airport (T Junction). It is located at Aurobindo Marg. So, you can easily book a cab to reach here without any hassle.
Should you visit the tomb?
Delhi is known for its magnificent, ancient monument and history. If you are someone who loves to explore the history and stories around it, this is your next destination. If you love architecture, you shouldn’t miss this monument. Though I believe everyone who lives in Delhi should visit this monument and learn the story behind it. Also, it can be a great place to visit if you are at home and need something offbeat and not-so-crowdy place to visit in Delhi.
I was lucky that when I visited there, the place was silent and not many visitors were there. So, I had a good time photographing the monument and exploring everything it has to offer. So, pick your camera or treat yourself with the opulent architecture of the Safdarjang tomb. Kindly follow the lockdown protocols before you leave your home.
